A: A sewing machine combines two separate threads to make each stitch. The top thread is fed through the fabric by a needle and looped with the bobbin thread to form a stitch. The fabric is guided through the machine by hand, and held firm by a presser foot.
A: Needles come in a range of sixes and point types to won different thickness and weaves of fabric. They should be changed after each item is finished, since blunt needles can mark fabric. The right type of point is vital..
A: Select the strength and color of you thread according to the material and co.or of the fabric. Use cotton thread for cotton and wool or, alternatively, try a multipurpose polyester thread for most fabric types. Use the same threads both for machine and handstitching.1-Cotton Thread: Is ideal for machine-and handstitching on Cotton, rayon, and lines.2-Silk Thread: A Fine thread best used with solid and lightweight fine wools.3-Polyester Thread: Strong yet elastic tread for synthetic and natural fabrics.4-Buttonhole twist: A strong, thick silk used for handstitching button holes and attaching buttons.5-Spooled thread: You can buy all popular thread on spools, which fit over the spool pin on a machine.
Q: How to secure a hand Thread? A: Thread ends need to be firmly secured, weather you are making permanent garment stitches, or stitches to hold fabric together temporarily-as in basting. The longer stitch is for basting, since you can undo it by simply pulling the short end..
Q: What is a Knot and Backstitch?
A: Make a knot, Insert the needle, bring it out close to the knot. Insert the needle against the knot and make a backstitch.
Q: What is an Overcast Stitch?
A: Also known as an overedge stitch, this is handy for finishing raw edges. Take the needle through the fabric, working from back to front, 1/8in (2-3mm) from the raw edge. Move the needle along to the left and bring it out again through the fabric from back to front. Continue sewing like this.
Q: TENSION, TENSION, TENSION, TENSION!!!
A: The machine bobbin needs to be wound evenly. Then, with needle threaded, raise it to expose the eye with the guide at its highest position. Turn the handwheel until the needle enters the bobbin case and then returns to its highest position. As it rises, it pulls up a loop of bobbin thread. Pull loop to bring bobbin thread through.
Q: How important are Measurements?
A: Before buying a pattern, take at least four accurate body measurements. Ask a friend to help and have the tape measure kept taut at all times. Underwear is fine if you have no close-fitting garment to wear. Your body size is unlikely to match the pattern size exactly, so choose a size that comes closest your largest measurement.
Q: Patterns!!!
A: The envelope front shows the finished garment, while the back details the fabric amount needed for each view. Size charts, recommended fabrics, and drawings of the garment details are also given. Inside is an instruction sheet and the pattern tissue.
Q: What are Seam Guides?
A: To make a seam, two or more pieces of fabric are joined together-usually with a line of machine stitching. In order to keep the stitching evenly spaced, you need to use the seam guidelines on your sewing machine carefully, or you can use a seam gauge that is fixed to the needle plate and forms a guide for sewing straight seams.
Q: How to Stitch a Corner?
A: To stitch corners or curves as for collars or cuffs, or to add neat detailing to topstitching, you will need to pivot the fabric with the needle down. The trick is to pivot accurately exactly at the corner, and mark the corner point with a crosswise pin or long basting stitch.
Q: How to reduce Bulk in Fabric?
A: Seam allowances are the amount of fabric allowed for on a pattern where sections of an item are to be joined together by a seam. Trim seam allowance that are enclosed within a finished part of the garment to reduce their bulk you will also need to clip or notch the trimmed seam allowance for curved seams so they will lie flat.
Q: How to make a French Seam? A: A self-enclosed seam, a French seam is neat, narrow, and perfect for sheer fabrics where the seam allowances are visible, since it conceals all raw edges. However, it should be used only on straight fabric edges. This type of seam is machine stitched, and when finished should be no more than about 1/4in (6mm) in width. Place the fabric with the wrong sides together and raw edges even.
Q: How to stitch a Curved Seam?
A: A curved-Princess seam is formed bty joing inward and outward curves. The curved seam is shaped out over the bust, fitted at the waist, and shaped out toward the hips. You will need to staystitch, which is simply straight machine stitching worked just inside a seam allowance, to add strength and prevent stretching.
Q: ALTERATIONS!! Simple Hemlines?
A: Hems are usually the last thing you stitch on a garment. Stick to a simple turned-up hem, which you clean finish and handstitch in place with catchstitching. Mark the hemline accurately. Lay the fabric flat, or hang it by trying it on with the underwear, belt and shoes you would wear with it. Pin and check hemline before trimming.
Q: How to make a simple Hemline?
A: Before you finish and stitch the hemline, you must turn up, pin and trim the hem allowance. For a smooth continuous hem, align the grainline at both the center front and center, and the side seams, with the same grainlines and seams on the hem allowance.
Q: Finishing Off? A: The best way to ensure a really durable finish to permanent stitching is by taking a small backstitch over a few threads and leaving a small loop. Make another stitch in the same place, and pass the needle through the loop of the first stitch. Pull the thread secure. Make the securing stitches as small as possible, and work on the fabrics wrong side.